HONG KONG – THE GLOBAL MARKETPLACE FOR GEMS AND JEWELRY 

The 32nd edition of the Hong Kong International Jewellery Show this past March attracted a record number of exhibitors,
making it the world’s largest gem and jewelry show, attesting once again to the city’s importance as a global trading hub.

By Cynthia Unninayar

For the second year, the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC) organized its annual gem and jewelry event under the “Two Shows, Two Venues” format. The Hong Kong International Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show took place at Asia World Expo (AWE) near the airport from March 2 - 6, and the Hong Kong International Jewellery Show, located as usual in the city’s convention center, welcomed visitors from March 4 - 8.
    The more than 76,000 buyers from 140 countries and regions who came to see the wares of 4,364 exhibitors from 52 countries and regions reflected a two percent increase over the 2014 show. More than 46,000 visited the jewelry show’s 2490 exhibitors, while some 30,000 buyers came to see the 1874 exhibitors at the gem show.
    “Despite the global economic challenge, the two shows recorded a slight increase in buyer attendance, stated Benjamin Chau, HKTDC Deputy Executive Director. “It is a very encouraging result. Attendance from traditional markets even recorded double-digit percentage growth, namely the USA, Italy, UK and Japan. Visitors from certain emerging markets such as Thailand, Israel and South Africa also recorded significant growth, reinforcing Hong Kong’s position as a leading jewelry sourcing hub.”
    The majority of exhibitors in both shows were from overseas, demonstrating that they consider Hong Kong as a springboard to the rest of Asia, especially the large Chinese market, even though growth in China has slowed recently. In a survey of 1,206 buyers and exhibitors commissioned by the HKTDC, both groups said they were optimistic about the growth potential of jewelry markets in Hong Kong and the Chinese mainland, which they consider a key market to explore.
     Ninety-one percent of buyers and 93 percent of exhibitors polled consider Hong Kong’s fairs a major channel to find new suppliers, while 79 percent of exhibitors consider the fairs a key avenue to promote new products. The majority of respondents said the twin Hong Kong fairs are “their must-attend trade show.”
    The survey also found that “80 percent of buyers expect steady or increased overall sales this year, while over 60 per cent of buyers and exhibitors expect retail prices to remain steady in order to remain competitive.” In terms of product materials, the majority of buyers and exhibitors interviewed expect karat gold to be the most popular material in 2015, with white gold leading the trend at 48 percent, followed by yellow (32 percent) and rose gold (33 percent). They also predict that diamonds will be the most popular gemstone this year, with one-carat stones leading at 48 percent, followed by round-cut (45 percent) and colorless (41 percent) diamonds.

Gemstones, Diamonds and Pearls
      Starting two days earlier than the jewelry event, the Hong Kong International Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show featured a vast assortment of products. Diamonds occupied a large portion, with Antwerp, Israel, the USA, and India hosting large pavilions. The busiest booths seemed to be those that sold natural colored diamonds. U.S.-based Scarselli Diamonds offered a range of very large fancy color stones, including a 50-carat round intense yellow and a 15-carat vivid yellow heart, as well as some spectacular fancy diamond jewelry. “2014 was a strong year for colored diamonds and we are seeing this demand spill over into 2015,” stated Bruno Scarselli. “While we sell all sizes, we are seeing great interest by retailers for the 2 to 5-carat range.”
       Another busy booth was at such as at Belgium-based Antwerp Cut, which showcased a wide variety of colors and sizes, including a spectacular suite of 20 intense yellows and a 0.90-carat red. “Potential buyers do not come here specifically to replenish their stocks,” stated Mike Akiki, Antwerp Cut’s managing director, “but to make the right contacts so that they know who to contact when they need a custom order. The Hong Kong March show is therefore the ideal platform for maintaining existing contacts and for making new contacts.” Israel-based Sweet Diamonds featured a 1-carat red diamond for $1.8 million, while Israel-based Ella offered a 0.45-carat red for $1.2 million.
      Selling mostly colorless rounds from 30 points to 3 carats, in various qualities, Hong Kong-based Dharam Creations offered an innovative way for buyers to examine prospective diamonds. “We launched software that allows a video of the stones to display all the inclusions in a clear manner,” explained Manish Mangukia. “Retailers are happy with the system as their customers can see for themselves exactly what they are buying.” He continued that sales at the show were about as expected with most buyers coming from China and the ASEAN nations. Another company selling to China is Charming Diamonds, which, in addition to its regular stock, has specialty cuts in sizes of 8.88 carats, an auspicious number for the Chinese.
    In the gemstone sections, it was a bazaar of every type, color and quality of stone, ranging from inexpensive beads to rare untreated gems. Dealers of higher end stones, such as Germany-based Constantin Wild, said business was good, with the “finest qualities selling the best.” Among others, he showcased a rare orange-pink imperial topaz.
    While there were buyers for all colors, the neon shades of Paraiba tourmaline were popular. Sebastian Ferreira, director of Brazil Paraiba Mine (the only major source left in Brazil for the popular gems, named for the state in which they were originally found) offered Brazilian Paraibas, ranging from melee to five carats as well as carved pieces. Other dealers also offered some Brazilian stones, but most were from Mozambique.
       Sapphires, in all colors—especially pink, yellow and blue—attracted buyers’ attention. Among the interesting cuts were those seen at Sri Lanka-based Sapphirus. “We have a variety of cuts, and are now introducing a new unique diamond cut into our sapphires,” said Andre Tissera. This impressive branded and patented cut, known as “Asscher Cut Princess,” was invented by Israel “Izzy” Itzkowitz of U.S.-based diamond brand, Quadamas.
      In the Opal category, Australia-based Cody Opals featured a variety of beautiful stones, including a collection of “Koroit” opal. “This has been a really hot product,” said Andrew Cody, director. “Koroit is boulder opal in matrix and opalized wood that provides a unique combination of patterns and veins.” He also saw strong demand for black opals because of their rarity. “We’ve met many Chinese mainland customers who are looking for high-end loose opals and we’ve successfully closed deals with them.”
    Green gems seemed to be a favorite of many Asian buyers. “The demand for green tourmaline is high at the right prices,” explained Marcelo Bernardes of Brazil-based Manoel Bernardes, “but supplies are difficult to come by.” In the emerald category, Marcelo Ribeiro, director of Brazil-based Belmont, said that emeralds remain popular.
    In the warmer end of the spectrum, fire opal was seen to be rising in popularity and price. Clement Sabbagh of Brazil-based Ben Sabbagh Bros., stated that the orange stone was becoming more popular with Chinese buyers as they learn about the gem.
     This year, the Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show introduced the “Treasures of Ocean” zone for pearls. A number of exhibitors indicated that buyers from China had a strong demand for high quality pearls, especially natural and top-quality grades. Alain Boite, president of France-based Alain Boite added, “Many customers approached us to buy all sorts of pearls in different sizes. We have also met new buyers from China, Hong Kong and Indonesia who are seeking golden pearls.” Yoshihiro Shimizu, president of Japan Pearl Exporters, was particularly happy about the traffic and business for the 100 Japanese pearl companies exhibiting at the show.



 Jewelry and More
    At Hong Kong’s modern convention center, the Hong Kong International Jewellery Show kicked off with a record number of exhibitors, plus special seminars and networking events, fashion shows, gala dinners, and jewelry competitions. Conveniently divided into various sections, this mega-marketplace included fine jewelry, silver, antique pieces, equipment, jade, packaging, and various national pavilions.
    Among the show’s highlights was the launch of the new “Natural Diamond Quality Assurance Mark.” An initiative of the Diamond Federation of Hong Kong (DFHK), it aims to maintain Hong Kong’s reputation as an international diamond-trading hub for both traders and consumers. "By placing a rigorous assessment process and adhering to the highest ethical business standards, the Mark provides quality assurance to consumers and increases their confidence and desire for purchasing natural diamonds in Hong Kong,” said Lawrence Ma, founding president and chairman of DFHK and chairman of the 2015 organizing committee of the two shows.
     The jewelry competitions featured splendid examples of the world’s talented designers. Among them, the International Jewellery Design Excellence Awards featured 191 entries from 31 countries and regions, making it the largest and most international to date.
    Many other wonderful pieces were seen while walking the halls of this gigantic show, from simple silver pieces to extraordinary gold, diamond and gemstone jewelry produced by some of the world’s most respected brands.
     In terms of trends, there was something for everyone. Having said that, however, a few notable design directions were evident. Lacy, open designs continued to be prevalent in light of metals’ prices. Diamond pieces in all sizes and price ranges remained popular. Flora and fauna motifs abounded in a variety of stylized and realistic pieces, while long earrings and full-fingered rings attracted a lot of attention. Long, loopy necklaces and large center stone rings graced many display windows. Some of these creations are seen on these pages. The next HKTDC show will be held again in March with exact dates to be announced later. (www.hktdc.com)

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The March Hong Kong show featured many gems, including: Carved Paraiba tourmaline butterflies from Brazil Paraiba Mine (above left); a rare 0.90-ct red diamond by Antwerp Cut (above right); auspicious 8.88-ct loose diamonds by Charming Diamonds (lower left); and a  ring set with a rare 3.04-ct blue diamond and two white diamonds by Scarselli Diamonds (lower right).

The innovative Asscher Cut Princess diamond cut was applied to sapphires at Sapphirus (upper left); Fire opals measuring 4 to 6 cm by Ben Sabbagh Bros.; Koroit opal by Cody Opals (middle left); A 20-ct bicolor Imperial tourmaline by Constantin Wild (middle right); A 65-ct Colombian emerald by Caram (lower left); Catseye chrysoberyl by Sparkles and Colors (lower right).

Among the more unusual jewelry was this gold and diamond horse necklace by TTF Haute Joaillerie (upper left); A diamond, tsavorite and baroque pearl brooch by Mario Buzzanca (upper right); A micro-mosaic "Venice" ring by Le Sibille (center); Two carved quartz and ruby perfume bottle pendants by May Jewelry (lower left); And this gemstone, diamond, and shell statue by Moiseikin (lower right).

One of the winners in the International Design Contest was this spectacular opal and gemstone necklace by Alessio Boschi (upper left); Original gemstone and gold "Lily Pond" pendant by Mokoso Atelier (upper right); Morganite and pearl earrings by Yoko London (lower left); Diamond and gemstone pendant by MVee (lower right).

Diamond and emerald earrings by Bapalal Keshavlal (upper left); Gold, diamond and gemstone necklace by Peter Lam (upper right); Gemstone and pearl brooch by Mousson Atelier (lower left); Gemstone and gold ring by Zorab (lower right).

Multi-gem earrings by Amrapali Jewels (upper left); sapphire and diamond pendant by Green G (upper right); diamond full-finger ring by Djula (lower left), multi-gem ring by E&V Jewellery (lower right).

At left: multi-gem and diamond ring by Isabelle Langlois (upper left); Diamond and gold ring by Lili Diamonds (upper right); Brass, silver and enamel hand decoration by Sekikazu (lower left); Rutilated quartz and gold ring by Sonja Kreis (lower right).